III-a

The
James and Leoline Brown
Era

1886 - 1906

Most of the early history of Balsam Hill is captured in letters and diariesExcerpts quoted from diaries are preceded by an image of a diary.
Those from letters are preceded by an image of a letter and an envelope.
of Leoline's. Some events are told of explicitly while others must be inferred.

Leoline wrote in her diaries regularly. Unfortunately several years of diaries are missing, many of which would have addressed the very early years of Balsam Hill (1897-1902)A few loose pages of journals from 1901 and 1902 exist. . As disciplined as she was with her writing it is safe to assume they are missing rather than never written. In a letter dated July 31, 1905 written in Brighton to James, she asked him to

"Keep this letter for the log book of the cabin."

That book has also not been located.

It was common in those early days of Brighton for families to arrive in early to mid July and not return home until Labor Day. Women and children usually stayed through that period while the men would arrive "in camp" only periodically, as they could break away from earning a living in the valley. Most of a day was consumed in travel to Brighton. Leoline wrote to James almost daily when he was not able to be there.

Letters sent from Brighton prior to 1901 bore a Park City postmark. Subsequent letters displayed a Silver Lake postmark.

After 1910 little is written about Brighton and Balsam Hill by Leoline, who then, for health reasons, lived most of the time in California. From then on, stories lie mostly in the memories of those still alive who experienced them or heard them spoken of by their predecessors.

1896

Although no documentation supports the supposition that James and Leoline had been to Brighton prior to September of 1896, it seems unlikely that they hadn't. Leoline's diary entries for three days beginning September 6, 1896 are her first known written lines mentioning Brighton.

Sunday Sept 6, 1896: "Prepared for a little trip to Brighton to take Miss StokesSusan G. Stokes was a close friend of Leoline's since her school days and continued to be until Leoline's death in 1916. on a botanical trip also to see the place and pick out a building spot if satisfactory."

Monday Sept 7, 1896: "Went to Brighton by wagon. JH, Creighton, Ross myself, Sylvia, Ethel,Sylvia and Ethel were sisters of Leoline's. Miss Stokes with Hunter to drive. Left at 7am. Arrived after stopping many times in Cottonwood Cañon; at BBecause of space limitations in diaries Leoline would frequently use initials. In this case she is speaking of Brighton. She often uses initials when referring to her children as well. at 3. Stopped at the hotel. Went with Mr. GodbeMr. Godbe refers to William S. Godbe a controversial Mormon and founder of the Salt Lake Tribune and the "Godbeites", a group opposed to Brigham Young's control over secular matters. After the death of Brigham Young in 1877 Godbe wrote, "I think I will reside permanently in Salt Lake, it is pleasant for me there now." WS Godbe died at his home in Brighton on Aug 1, 1902. to Solitude Lake. Could not sleep."

Tuesday Sept 8, 1896: "Rain. Went toward Lake Mary, only Ethel and JH reached it. Started for home at 2:30. Arrived at Lincoln Ave at 8pm...found it very cold. The ride home was bitter cold. Stopped to gather service berries, choke cherries and elder berries. All slept well."

It is curious that there was no mention of any inspection of a lot as that seemed to be a purpose of the excursion. Since a diary of 1897 is missing, the next documentation following this trip is the recording of the deed to the Brighton property which James and Leoline purchased from Robert A. Brighton on July 26, 1897.James' business partner, E.D. Woodruff, purchased Brighton property next door south of Balsam Hill and was recorded on the same day. A small, one room, framed cabin and log fence were constructed probably in the remaining summer of 1897 and in early 1898. The window of opportunity for building was short. Access to the property would have been difficult until July and the snow could start accumulating again in October.

1898

In the summer of 1898 the Brown family consisted of James 43, Leoline 35, Creighton 14, Ross 11, Ted 7, Marjorie 5 and Lavinia 2½. James H Brown Family
The Brown Family, Spring 1900
L-R: Ross,Marjorie James H.,Lavinia,Creighton,Elizabeth, Leoline,Ted


The following journal entry is the first known after they began spending their summers in Brighton.

1898 - "Came to Brighton July 25 - 12:30. Twenty one campers came that evening and pitched their tents outside our north fence. Fine weather until Aug 4 which was showery. Porcupines have taken a great fancy to our redwood battens on the cabin and have gnawed them badly letting in the daylight in many places. On the night of July 28 porcupines were gnawing at the house. J.H. borrowed a shotgun from the campers and killed a large one crouched under the house. Many have been seen in this vicinity. J.H. went to Salt Lake July 29th returning Aug 2nd....Creighton is a persistent fisherman and on Aug 7 caught 10. ... Marjorie's birthday Aug 4 we spent at Twin Lakes taking lunch. Marjorie, Alia (maid) and Ted went up to a snow bank and brought a pail full to the camp at the upper lakeThis was when Twins Lakes was still two natural lakes. The Twin Lakes dam was built in 1915 causing the formation of one large lake. where we made lemon sherbet. Clouds were gathering all day and that night came a heavy rainfall, but 'twas clear and fine Friday morning when J.H. returned to S.L."

The normal routine during these first few years on Balsam Hill upon arrival for the season was to first lay the floor that supported the tent next to the little cabin. Tent and Framed Cabin The tent would be raised and the cabin cleaned. Then it was time to just be in Brighton to fish, read, "tramp" (as hiking was referred to) and call on friends and neighbors. The older boys, Creighton and Ross, discovered fishing very quickly. They did so almost every day and also discovered a market for their excess fish.

August 3, 1898: "Yesterday Creighton and Ross had wonderful luck fishing. Besides those you took down they sold two pounds to the hotel and brought home more than we have yet disposed of. It was thirty two they had I believe."

In 1898 the hotel was leased to R. Jay Lambert and William H. Lett who were very imaginative with activities planned to attract clientele. Picnics, parties, bonfires and tramps to surrounding peaks were among those undertaken. Tent and Framed Cabin
Tent and Framed Cabin
In 1899 they added a piano to enhance indoor activities. After their two year run of success, Lambert became more interested in mining than running a hotel and, in fact, filed at least 23 claims in the Silver Lake area, so, after the 1899 season Lett and Lambert gave up the lease of the hotel.

Leoline would sleep in the cabin with the girls and the tent was the boy's quarters. There was a wood stove in the cabin for heat and cooking.

Weather in Brighton greatly dictated activities and was spoken of often. Most diary entries are preceded with a weather notation, cool, warm, windy, etc. and often times the temperature.

August 31, 1898:"Last evening toward nine just as the boys had gone to bed in the tent it began to rain. The wind blew from the SE and the rain came in torrents. I began to think it must be a cloudburst and was anxious about the boys in the tent, but could not leave the house. When there came a lull I went into the tent hoping to find that the boys had moved to the north east bed, but no - they were snoozing unconscious of the storm and as two fastenings on the west side of the tent were loose the blankets on that side were drenched. I took dry blankets from the other bed and put over Ted, nearest the wall leaving the wet ones on top."

September 2, 1898:"Last night was exceedingly wild with gusts of wind and flurrys [sic] of rain and hail which threatened to blow us all down the canyon. The fastenings from the east side of the tent were all loosened but it did not go over. The flagpole was broken and the flag lay back of the awning, and one of the shutters leaning against the west side was thrown down."




James H. Moyle
James H. Moyle
courtesy Adrien Aldous

The Brighton Hotel sat vacant in 1900 and Taylor, Romney and Armstrong built a fence around the facility, but still allowed campers to occupy the meadows surrounding it. In August 1900, it was announced that James H. Moyle would take over the operation of the facility, but didn't actually purchase the property until 1906. Moyle had been the administrator of William Brighton's estate and had purchased, in 1890, his own lot that was located to the north, almost in the shadow of the three story hotel, on which he built a cabin in 1895. Moyle did not open the hotel in the summer of 1901 as he had hoped, but did make it available for dances and other activities and he rented some of the small guest cabins that surrounded it.





1901

No writings exist for the 1899 and 1900 seasons in Brighton. A sixth child was born on July 3, 1899 (Elizabeth), so the season may not have been spent in Brighton or at least their time there was limited. The summer of 1900 initiated construction of the log house which was completed in 1901.

1901 - Came to Silver Lake July 18, Thursday at 12:30. Found new log house to the beginning of gables, five men working, who hope to have it finished in one week.... A heavy wagon load of freight which we had passed at the "stairs" arrived at 6pm.... Friday JH and Ross tried to clear a place in the back for a "dug out" cellar, but found too many stones and gave it up. Saturday they worked in the grove, draining and building the path."

At the end of July 1901, Balsam Hill Cabin was occupied. After the log structure was built the little framed cabin was "moved, leveled and joined to the other." This became the kitchen for the log house.

Balsam Hill
July 31 12M


Dear James,

The building goes merrily on. They were the afternoon of Monday and morning of Tuesday getting the house moved, leveled and joined to the other. Charles is now finishing the platform in front. Noodle is making a most artistic railing around the front porch. The silent one is painting the rear gable. The heavy one is hanging shutters upstairs.It is not known who the workmen were that built the cabin as no last names were ever mentioned. "Noodle" is a workman that is also mentioned having done work for them in Salt Lake on Lincoln Ave. JoeJoe is Leoline's older brother - Joseph Woodmansee, Jr. talks of going this afternoon though we have tried all our persuasiveness to have him stay longer. We moved our bedding into the house last night - and left the tent deserted. Previously Ted and Joe had slept upstairs and the first night of the cabin moving, HannahLeoline always had a maid and/or a cook to help. had occupied the front bedroom. It seemed almost too warm in the house last night though we all shed one pair of blankets apiece and had our windows open. The boys (Ross) have put the filling on front bedroom and under the stairs, and we have our provisions in stacks of cans under the stairs where each particular kind can be seen at a glance. The butter, eggs and vegetables have been placed by Joe in the cellar. .... I hope to have the large room cleaned so that it can be brushed over with the filling tonight after the children are in bed.

Mr. Dinwoodey called and looked the house over on Monday. He was delighted with it - at least his grunts of approval seemed to be taken something of that sort. The stairway and seats and the abundant ventilation of the bunk rooms were some of the things he pointed out. Yesterday he brought Mrs. Dinwoodey and Mrs. Moyle up. They were also much pleased. The men talk of going home tomorrow afternoon. ............

Balsam Hill Cabin
Balsam Hill Cabin 1901, with its "most artistic railing" made of aspen and the little framed cabin attached, becoming the kitchen

The Staircase
The girl is probably Elizabeth. Leoline's guitar hangs
on the wall along the stairs and the logs have not yet
had their "filler" (chinking).

Many chores still remained to complete the new cabin.

"Ross oiled the floor of the living room and put liquid granite on the front room floor." Windows remained to be stained, chairs assembled and "filler" placed between the logs.

Leoline also expressed disapproval of some details.

August 2, 1901 "The little awnings, roofs or whatever they may be called in connection with the hanging shutters do not improve the appearance of the house. I asked Noodle to paint them the red, meaning only the roof, but he painted them inside and out and that is another eyesore."

Almost all of the documentation available for this time was written by Leoline and saved by James. In one of the very few surviving letters written by James, this one to his daughter Marjorie on her 8th birthday, composed on Brown, Terry and Woodruff Co. stationary, he states his regret for not being there to help her celebrate.

August 4, 1901: ... Papa wishes he were up there today to go with you on the tramp and enjoy the picnic, I hope you will have a very nice time. I wonder how you like the new house by this time now that it is all finished or would you still rather live in the tent?"

He ends with the following:

"....I hope you will have a good time today so when you get to be a much larger girl you can look back and think what a pleasant birthday you once had in Brighton.

Lovingly, Papa

1902

On January 10, 1902 Leoline, the last of the Brown children, was born in Salt Lake City.

The trip to Brighton from Salt Lake was not a passive one. It must be planned, arrangements made and a day allowed to accomplish the feat. In this journal entry Leoline describes a typical move up the canyon for the summer.Early Big Cottonwood Road
Early Big Cottonwood Road

July 24, 1902: "At 6 AM a four seated wagon containing Mr. and Mrs. J.H. Brown, the Misses Marjorie, Lavinia, Elizabeth & Virginia BrownHere and in her mother's diary on January 10, 1903 baby Leoline is referred to as Virginia:January 10, 1903: "Virginia's birthday. She is one year old. She has eight teeth... Her hair is getting very thick but is so white that it does not show much. She creeps all about and pulls herself up to things. With help she can take a few steps. She still has her bottle once in five hours, and eats at meal times. She can say a few words."No other instances are found calling her Virginia and no legal documents make such reference either. , Creighton & Ted Brown, Miss Sylvia WoodmanseeSylvia is Leoline's younger sister by 8 years. , Emma & HannahHousekeepers. , left 825 Lincoln Avenue for the summer outing at Brighton. Ross had left an hour earlier on the ponyThe pony's name was Nellie and had accompanied the Browns to Brighton since 1898. . The provisions had been stacked the evening before. The coolness of morning soon gave place to the heat of a typical summer day and the dust of the cañon rose in great clouds. On account of the holiday Big Cottonwood was filled with campers and wagons of picnickers.Since 1856, when Brigham Young began the tradition, July 24th was celebrated in Brighton on the Silver Lake meadow bringing hundreds of revelers to the top of the canyon. Fortunately they were all going in one direction. Our four horses were not very fresh and we did not arrive at Brighton until nearly 2 o'clock, passing the provisions at the Maxwell Mine. Ross had arrived some time before and we found the home opened and things cleared away in the kitchen....At six the wagon load of supplies arrived; beds were made and all retired early. There were enough blue bottle flies in the house to supply the state."

Besides fishing, there was much hiking done, sometimes casual and sometimes vigorous. The peaks, lakes and small tributary canyons were all frequented by those who visited Balsam Hill and Brighton. For the most part, named features carry the same moniker today, but one diary passage describes a curious path.

Aug 25, 1902: "Showery. Mrs. TerryThe wife of L. L. Terry, a principal in the Brown, Terry, Woodruff Corporation. , Ethel, Ross, Ted, Marjorie, JH and LWB spent the day tramping. We breakfasted at 9:30 and taking lunch and leaving the house and three small children with Emma and Hannah we set out. We took the Twin Lakes trail until nearly in sight of the lakes when we struck the high trail to Alta divide which we took. A shower came up and we waited for a while under pinion pines near Solitude divide then pressed on. We saw Lake Solitude and the Twins, climbed Tuscarora then along the ridge to Wolverine, where we lunched and rested until 2:30 thence to Mt Robert. (Should have said we had a fine view of Lake Minnie and the Devil's Castle from Tuscarora) Descending Mt Robert to Catherine divide thence to Lake Catherine and down to lakes Martha and Mary.......After resting and drinking the cold water at Mary's Lake we started home passing fishermen at Phoebe Lake. Reached home at 6:30."

Lake Phoebe
Lake Phoebe c1910 with Tuscarora (Mt. Robert) towering above.
Lake Mary
Lake Mary before the dam.
The route she describes does not fit the sequence of today's named peaks and there is no record, except in this and a few other diary passages of Mt. Robert, even on maps of that era. What she refers to as Tuscarora (incorrectly) is the high point of the ridgeline between Twin Lakes pass and Wolverine, today called Patsy-Marley after a mining claim in Little Cottonwood Canyon. From there Lake Minnie (today known as Cecret LakeCecret Lake was shown on maps in 1907 as Mountain Lake and in 1938 as Secret Lake. ) and the Devil's castle would be clearly seen. Mt Tuscarora is what she was calling Mt. Robert. From there the descent to Catherine Pass is logical. Lake Phoebe was a natural lake just below Lake Mary. In 1915, when the Lake Mary dam was completed, Phoebe disappeared behind the 80 foot high, 330 foot long dam that holds 240 million gallons of water and cost $69,000 to construct.

1903

In the next few years Silver Lake Summer Resort, Robert Brighton's subdivided 80 acre parcel, was beginning to accumulate more and more interest. Lots were being purchased and cabins constructed. As one of the early homes built in the resort, Balsam Hill Cabin was the subject of inspection by prospective summer residents of Brighton.

Aug 6, 1903: "Several of the Godbe camp ladies have just been over. Miss Clark, Miss Kendall (not L's teacher) and Maud Paul. They think our cabin and our location the very finest in the town. I told them we thought so but did not expect everyone else to think the same. Mr. E.B. Critchlow was over last evening He is looking around with a view to getting a lot and building. He has picked out that level place between Balsam Hill and Dr. Woodruff's place. He examined our house very critically - inquired the price with apologies. I told him I thought you had said that the whole thing, lot and all, stood you in for $1500. Is that right? I could not tell what the log part cost. He seemed to think that was more than most people would care to put into a place up here, but thought it a good investment. The only thing he would have different in one would be a bathroom somewhere......."

Living Room
Living Room East window. The "filler" between the logs has been added.

In the back of the 1903 diary is written a simple breakdown of the costs to build Balsam Hill Cabin:


Brighton Lots 150.00
Kitchen 110.00
Log 910.00
Fences, springs, matresses, etc 113.00
Total $1300.00

Some of the Brighton treks became traditions, executed at least once or twice a season by many of the "Brightonites". These excursions carried on for generations. I recall my mother speaking with fondness of participating when she was a young girl in the late 1920's and 30's.

A much anticipated, annual trip was a horseback ride to the "Hot Pots" located in the Heber Valley. It is now called the Homestead Resort. They would "bathe", or swim, in the geothermal pools, have dinner at the small hotel restaurant and return to Brighton after dark.

Aug 7, 1903: "Ted had taken the alarm so as to get up good and early to start to the Hot Pots with a party at seven on the pony, but he did not hear it and was rather late. But got off. Mr. Frank Godbe led the expedition which consisted of about ten persons on horseback. They had a good day's pleasure. Two baths, a good dinner at the hotel and the ride home arriving at nine PM."

August 13, 1903: "Cloudy with some wind and indications of rain. The children were up and dressed by eight. After breakfast they cooked on the little stove."

The Little Stove was a salesman's sample, probably acquired when the Brown's were shopping for a kitchen stove. It has entertained generations.

Little Stove

August 23, 1903: ".....JH is busy digging out the back of the house where the soil, lying against the logs, seems to be rotting them. He will be laying other logs against them."

The Trench Digger
Titled as the "Trench Digger"
James is digging out the back of the house.
This is where the bathroom would be added
years later on the south east corner of the cabin.

More ambitious hiking was undertaken by the older boys as well. On August 23, 1903 a party was arranged to hike to the top of Twin Peaks, located west of Brighton and is part of the ridge line that divides Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Its elevation is over 11,000 feet. Because of weather, this trip could have turned out poorly, but all returned safely. The newspaper article from the New York Sun describes the adventure with some slight dramatization and prompted some inquiry from the relatives in the east.New York Sun Article
The New York Sun, August 29, 1903 Vol LXX-No.363

Leoline also describes the day's events. Creighton had just turned 19 six days prior to the excursion.

Wednesday Aug 26, 1903: "Creighton came home at 7:30 (PM). They had encountered a blizzard of snow and hail on the Twin peaks which stayed with them until they returned to Lake Minnie.Each of the two lakes below Lake Blanche was called Minnie at one time or another. When the State Engineer was inspecting the raising of the dams in the late 1930's he called one of them Lake Minnie. After the construction was completed the top was given a layer of mortar in which the lake's name was inscribed. The middle lake has the name Lake Florence, but the lower lake has Lake Minnie. (Information provided by Charles Keller) It was a hard trip. The wind blew so fiercely on the Twins and the rocks were so slippery with the storm. Creighton had no coat and took the flour sack his lunch was in and pulled it over his head making holes for head and arms. His fingers were frostbitten. He was ahead of his party in getting home. (The papers later published a thrilling account of the trip which so alarmed the relatives in Georgia that uncle George telegraphed for particulars and aunt NellieGeorge W. Brown was James H. Brown's younger brother living with his parents in Fitzgerald, Georgia. Nellie was James' sister living in Newark, New Jersey. wrote from Newark asking to know and be told all about it."

Goerge Brown Telegram
George Brown Telegram

The property that hosts Balsam Hill Cabin is about 80 feet north to south and 300 feet east to west. It slopes downward from east to west. The cabin sits roughly in the center, but favors the east side. At the bottom of the hill, on the west end, remains a grove of trees that has, for generations, been a playground for the children. It is mostly shady and filters any wind to a most comfortable breeze. The pine-needle covered ground offers a generous and soft area for seating. Leoline would spend hours in "the grove" reading; sometimes alone, sometimes with the small children or sometimes with friends exchanging ideas and reading books aloud. A Mrs. Caine was a favorite for such encounters. Leoline would also take her turn hosting evening services in the grove where friends from the "camp" would come to discuss ideas on religion. Many of the Brighton lots have such an area. Another such grove was at the Knox cabin. Frank Knox was a prominent man in Salt Lake and National financial circles.

The day after Creighton's freezing experience on Twin Peaks there was a service planned in the Knox grove. The service that day was to be the christening of the two youngest Brown girls and the youngest Woodruff daughter.

Thursday Aug 27, 1903: "Cold. A white frost covered everything but it was very bright and no wind. I was up early and went to market before breakfast. Told Mrs. Caine about the prospective Christening. Breakfast a little earlier. The whole family started for the Knox grove where Divine Service has been held for the last two Sundays at 10:30. Elizabeth (4) and Leoline (1) were christened. Also Mrs. Woodruff's baby Virginia May. The ceremony was performed and the children did very well. In the afternoon their pictures were taken with the sun in the grove. Dean Eddie (from St Marks conducted the service) and his son Hammish had dinner with us. Creighton had gone up beyond Mary's Lake for snow and we had some delicious pine apple sherbet which is the Silver Lake dish for special occasions. Creighton's hands were all right this morning."

Christening in the Grove

1904

Some hikes were very ambitious. On July 26, 1904 an excursion to Iron Mountain was described by Leoline. Iron Mountain is a name that is not in use today. Through old mining claims BLOSSBERY Situated on Iron Mountain "1/2 mile N of the Turbine mill, the same being known as the Hawley mill." James M & WB Cole. 26 July 1875 LCMD-C:238A; Mining claim. Hawley mill was on Hawley Flat, which is the lower end of Snowbird today. A half mile north of the mill would put it on Superior slopes; OLD SOLE LEATHER Situated on W side of Superior Gulch, 2000 feet W from Frederick mine and at the foot of the big cut through the Iron Mountain. James Fowles, Ferdinand Glaser. 7 July 1879 LCMD-C:536 2000 feet west of the Frederick mine would put it on the slopes of Superior. (Information courtesy of Charles L. Keller, author "Lady in the Ore Bucket") and the description in one of Leoline's lettersSL Tribune July 31, 1904
Salt Lake Tribune July 31, 1904 pg 9
to James it can be surmised that Iron Mountain in 1904 is what is known today as Mt Superior. From the Big Cottonwood side, Superior heads Mineral Fork and Mill B South Fork. From the Little Cottonwood side, it is the towering feature on the north side of the canyon overlooking Alta and Snowbird.

July 26, 1904: "Ted's trip to Iron Mountain was very successful. They did not get home until after nine however. Seven of them reached the top of Iron Mountain. Two girls were among the number. They saw the pavilion at Saltair and with aid of glasses saw a train coming in from the lake. They looked down on Lake Blanche and with the glass saw a fisherman hauling in a trout from that lake."

The Salt Lake Tribune also documented the considerable efforts of the hearty Iron Mountain group.


Another of the favorite hikes was to rise early and reach the top of Mt Majestic to watch the sunrise.

Aug 9, 1904: "EdithEdith Woodmansee was a sister of Leoline's, 6 years her junior. with others arranged to go again to the top of Majestic to see the sunrise. Mr. and Mrs. Doe and Mr. Adams will breakfast with her and Ted and Margie at 2:30. The table was set overnight and all preparations made." On top of Majestic
On top of Majestic

Aug 10, 1904: "Edith with Ted, Margie, Freda, Mr. and Mrs. Doe had an early breakfast and started out with others from the Brooks camp at 3:15 for the top of Mt Majestic to see the sunrise. They went by way of Deadwood Gulch.Deadwood Gulch is what is now commonly called Hidden Canyon. It is directly east of Balsam Hill Cabin and it drains the north side of Mt Majestic (Clayton Peak) The Does went only to the divide. The others reached the top, put out their lanterns and sat to await the sun's appearance. A magnificent sight but too cold. After they got home it rained heavily"

On August 18, 1904 another reference to Mt. Robert is made.

August 18, 1904:"Yesterday it rained at intervals all day. There was a beautiful sunset with tinted clouds this side of the western mountains - Evergreen, Millicent, Robert."

The view from Balsam Hill would again confirm she is calling Tuscarora Mt. Robert. Mt. Robert is presumably a local name, perhaps originated in honor of Robert Brighton, although the name didn't ever seem to receive wide use. Only one other reference is made to Mt. Robert - the caption of this photoLeoline at the base of Mt. Robert
"Lee at the foot of Mt. Robert"
of young Leoline (c1918). The rocky debris (scree) is typical of what is found at the base of Tuscarora.

In the memoranda section in the back of the 1904 diary is written the elevations of the geographical features surrounding Brighton. The information is taken from a "Report of 1904". It is not known what report is specifically being referred to here. Mt. Robert is not included among those listed.

In 1904 the Browns began to talk about enhancements and maintenance to the cabin. The floors needed oiling again. Logs were brought in by Billy Turpin Billy Turpin was a local "Brightonite" who performed many jobs for people in the camp. One of the services he offered was to skid logs to construction locations. to build a corral for the pony, Nellie. This job was handed to Ross as were many of the projects at the cabin, which he seemed to do willingly.

August 18, 1904: "Ross finished the corral yesterday and then discovered that his class pin was missing."

The picture below was taken in 1905. The corral is visible on the left and, looking through the front porch, the framed kitchen can be seen. Some discussion with a workman had occurred for the addition of a new porch.

Balsam Hill Cabin 1905

Aug 16, 1904: "...the carpenter has been here and looked at our proposal for improvements. He said he could do it with the lumber that was there but would need some aspen."

Aug 19, 1904: ..."Ross brought in quaking asp boughs for the construction of the porch which will be made as soon as Mr. Roger's new porch is completed."

The picture below shows the new porch and railing, but later, after the log kitchen was attached. There is no documentation giving direct support as to when the log kitchen was constructed. The timing of that event will be examined later.

Balsam Hill Cabin

In the meantime, the Brighton Hotel saw some interesting additions in 1904: three bowling alleys, golf links, tennis courts and croquet grounds. Salt Lake Tribune July 17, 1904: "This summer the hotel is under new management and Brighton is to have many new attractions. Several new boats have been placed on Silver Lake for the use of the public. Golf links, tennis courts and croquet grounds have been arranged for the guests and cottagers. The old hotel has been rearranged into a bowling alley where three fine Maplewood alleys have been laid." The announcement was also in the Salt Lake Tribune, April 26, 1904 The first decade of the twentieth century was probably the most active and prosperous for the hotel as a popular respite from Salt Lake, hosting activities and dances and fulfilling its role as a favored social gathering place for Brighton residents. The Salt Lake Tribune frequently published an account of happenings at Silver Lake; who's in camp, activities, etc. This was usually found in the Society pages on Sundays, going on for more than a column or two. Emma Morris, mentioned in the July 31, 1904 excerpt below, was my grandfather, Ben Morris' sister. (this excerpt has been retyped because the copy of the original was almost unreadable)


Happenings at Silver Lake

In James D. Moyle's book "Remembrances" he describes the bowling alleys:

"Then in 1908, Father also built a bowling alley that existed for several years out on the flat. A bowling alley ought to be pretty level, but this was on bad footing and had quite a few waves and curves in it.Page 105. This presents a bit of a contradiction. Perhaps Mr. Moyle's recollection is inaccurate as to the date the bowling alleys were constructed, or, more likely, they were first placed in the old hotel, and then rebuilt on the flats in 1908. I know that he also had a pool table there. In connection with that, GilGil Moyle was a brother of James D. Moyle. built an ice house near Silver Lake that had some questionable fame attached to it."

Silver Lake Bowling Alley
The Silver Lake Bowling Alley on the left of the meadow and the Ice House near the inlet.
photo courtesy of Adrienne Aldous and the Moyle family collection.

1905

In 1905 both Ross and Creighton were attending school back east; Creighton at Yale and Ross had just graduated from Hill School in Pennsylvania, in June. They would return home for the summers and still spend a good deal of time in Brighton.

In June of 1905, Creighton acquired a dog named "Dick". This collection of diary and letter excerpts below describes Dick's exploits, mostly in Brighton, and the progress of Leoline's affection towards him in 1905.

June 24, 1905: Creighton came home in the evening with the dog. It is a most intelligent creature. A row with our little spaniel Dougal and one with the cat entertained the evening.

June 27, 1905: Creighton saw a doctor about his dog's inflamed shoulder.

Aug 1, 1905: Dick attacked the Godbe dog Prince. Ross tried to separate them and wrenched his calf and got a gash on the thumb. Dick had a badly scratched face.

Aug 2, 1905: ...while Prince, like Dougal, escaped without any visible signs of the encounter. ...There was great excitement when the dogs fought and many conflicting rumors returned to us, such as: Dick was so badly damaged that he had to be shot; Dick had an eye torn out; another was one of our girls was thrown from the pony and badly hurt. There was no foundation whatever for this.

Aug 5, 1905: Dick's face badly swollen, probably with hornets.

Aug 6, 1905: ...he is a sorry sight - one side of his head so swollen that he cannot open one eye ... (this is not the eye that was damaged by Prince and Ross).

Aug 26, 1905: Dick spent the whole day under the house.

Aug 31, 1905: Dick seized Hooper29 by the leg but did not bite, fortunately. I shall be glad when he is happily disposed of.

Sept 1, 1905: Dick found a porcupine and had quills in his nose.

On July 5th James returned home from a 5 week, two day stay in the hospital as a result of surgery not described. Ross returned home from Hill School on the 4th and Ted was the first in Brighton, traveling up the canyon with the Godbe's to get the cabin ready for the other's arrival on the 29th. 1905 marks a genuine "settling in" in Brighton. Leoline writes more detail in her diary and frequent letters to James H. still recovering in Salt Lake. In fact, it appears James never visits Brighton in 1905.

July 28, 1905: Very warm in S.L. C went in the morning to Hunter, 8 miles west of Murray to get a girl for housework. LambLamb (last name) was a friend of Creighton's kindly took him in auto. We finished packing and sent the load by Andrus about 3 o'clock.

July 29, 1905: The four little girls, Creighton, new maid Lenora Milken and I started soon after six from Salt Lake after eating breakfast prepared by Edith W. which helped our starting very much. Had an uneventful trip but very dusty in the Cañon;. Arrived soon after one o'clock. Found the cabin nice and clean and the provisions unpacked. Creighton was ill and went to bed. Ross and I went to bonfire at Fabian's and William's camp.

July 30, 1905: All slept late. Breakfast eleven. Dinner at four. Nora saw her cousins and decides that Silver Lake is an enjoyable place to be in.

July 31, 1905: Emma Lucy Gates
Emma Lucy Gates Bowen
Cloudy and cold most of the day. Creighton, Ross and Ted fished. C caught eight, Ross 1, Ted none. We all went to Mrs. Walker's bonfire in the evening. I soon left with the little girls. Later Emma Lucy Gates sang.Emma Lucy Gates Bowen was a Utah native and granddaughter of Brigham Young who became an internationally prominent opera singer. "My whole soul seems to be brought out when I sing," she once wrote. In 1909 she received a contract with the Royal Opera of Berlin. After two years she accepted a position as prima coloratura soprano at the Kassel Royal Opera, soon becoming a popular European opera and concert artist, singing in the major cities of Europe. "Miss Gates is the equal of the greatest prima donnas this country has produced," wrote one critic. Often compared to Galli-Curci, the reigning prima donna of opera, she was praised for her "flawless agility," "purity of intonation," and "dazzling style," all demonstrating a "lyric charm and sensuous beauty of tone." Critics also praised her beauty, her stage presence, and her natural theatrical ability. I wrote a long letter home."

Included in her "long letter home" was one from Lavinia (9) to her father written in a very deliberate cursive hand.

Silver Lake July 30, 1905: My Dear Father, We are having a very nice time. I wish you were coming up here. Marjorie, Lucile and I have been riding. When we were just about up here we meet Mr. Andrus coming balk [back]. He had his bull dog along with him. Dick barked a little but that was all. It is raining a little. The wild flowers are very pretty. I will send you some. Last night Mama and Ross went to a bonfire at Fabian and William?s camp. Elizabeth is playing with Hooper.
Your Loving Lavinia

August 2, 1905: M & L began getting wood for the bonfire on Friday. Fitch and Brown were brought up by. The boys spent the night... going to P. City in the morning. I read 'Bishop Blougram'"Bishop Blougram's Apology" a lengthy poem by Robert Browning. An argument is made over wine after dinner to defend himself from the criticisms of a doubting young literary man, who despises him because he considers that he cannot be true to his convictions in conforming to the doctrines of the Catholic Church. Leoline spent considerable time studying Browning and attending classes/lectures or "sections" as she referred to them. and began 'Heart of Rome' by Crawford.

A consistent celebration was always held on August 4th for Marjorie's birthday (now 12 years old) where bonfires highlighted the festivities.

August 4, 1905: "Margie;s birthday dawned somewhat cloudily but warm. They are preparing a bonfire for tonight for which I have made a quantity of candy."

August 6, 1905: "...Margie's birthday passed off nicely. On the day before we had made and pulled quantities of candy wrapping each piece in tissue paper remembering how it stuck together at the last minute last Aug 4. Friday morning C & R with the pony, assisted by the Knox boys, made a fine log cabin bonfire. I made the birthday cake and more candy and Ted went about the camp extending a general invitation to the bonfire. In the afternoon Ross and the younger Knox went for snow between Martha and Catherine. There were two pails of it (10lb lard pails) and I made a huge bread raiser of pine apple sherbet. This with the birthday cake and candles we had for dinner at six. Of course there was a great quantity left. The bonfire was splendid. I think it burned better than any I have ever seen. The whole of Silver Lake was out and several people who had never seen a mountain bonfire before. Margie and Lavinia passed the candy, meeting each group of newcomers with it. There was plenty. Later, couples went into the house for cake and ice. The house was full. (Creighton had decorated with evergreens). The only drawback was that many went home earlier than they would have done seeing the ranks thinning. Then those in the house came back out and sat around the fire again. The bonfire was a mass of red hot coals from top to bottom most of the time. It did not seem to settle or fall together any but burned steadily all the time. After the boys had seen the girls home they sat around the fire again and made coffee. Fitch and Ralph Brown stayed here that night. - The wind up was a fierce storm of thunder and lightning and heavy rain - not enough to put out the fire however which smoldered all yesterday. Last night Margie gathered together the charred logs and with a little new had a fine new fire.

By this time, too, Creighton (20) and Ross (18) had become increasingly interested in fishing. This was an activity both seemed to dearly love and spent considerable time pursuing, especially Creighton. Most of their fishing was done at Silver Lake, but Twin Lakes was also a favorite spot and yielded some significant results. The fish they caught were a constant part of the Brighton diet.

August 4, 1905: Yesterday Creighton went with Dan Brighton and caught 14 in Twins. The largest catch ever brought into the house. Eight pounds.

August 6, 1905: Creighton fished in Twins yesterday and brought home four fine ones. The longest measured 17 inches. We had them for breakfast at 10:30.

August 6, 1905: C & R went fishing. C got 19 in Silver Lake, Ross 1 in Twins.

August 10, 1905: C rose at 2 am and went fishing with Dan Brighton. He was disappointed at bringing in only four when he came to breakfast at nine.

These types of diary and letter excerpts are common through all the years. Ted does a little fishing but seems to prefer hiking. There is rarely any mention of the girls fishing but are pictured frequently hiking. Various activities and events continued and are noted in diary entries and letter excerpts.

August 12, 1905: I should like to get some more oil and liquid granite. I will try and tell what quantity is needed to go over all the floors again. - This is still the most pleasing house in Brighton.

August 15, 1905: We all went to stage to meet NellieNellie Montgomery was Leoline's cousin and frequent guest and companion. who arrived from S.L. to stay two weeks. She joined a party composed largely of the Godbes and went to Lake Mary by moonlight. They had a bon fire and danced Virginia reel on the rock. Ross was along. They got back at 1 o'clock.

Aug 16, 1905: Ross decided to walk with Knox to S.L. They started at 8pm reached S.L. at 5am next day.

August 20, 1905: C's 21st birthday. Threatening, very warm. We went to Twin Lakes and picnicked. N. caught one and C. two fish. Returned at 6:30 when we had supper.

A group of interesting visitors came to Brighton on August 15, 1905. Leoline relays the story to James in this letter:

August 16, 1905: A supposed party of gypsies camped down at the division of the roads caused some dismay. Three girls had come to see NoraNora was the housekeeper for the season. and she walked out with them. Irene Brighton fell over a gypsy woman lying in the road at a little distance from their fire. Mr. Brighton accompanied N. home. The gypsies accosted the party on the way to Mary's Lake and wished to tell them their fortunes. George Ida and Edith had theirs told and the others said they hadn't time but if the gypsies would go to Mary's Lake all would have their fortunes told. The gypsies, however, were too tired. They spoke very good language and were very clever. I have heard nothing of them this A.M.

Aug 24, 1905: On the Style
Leoline and young Leoline on the style.
Read with Mrs. C [Caine] and Nellie. As we sat in the grove mother and Joe surprised us by coming over the style. Joe looks very thin but otherwise very well. His eye is not very noticeable.Joe (Leoline's older brother) had injured his eye in an accident a few weeks prior and had it surgically removed.

August 24, 1905: ...Yesterday we went with the pony to Honeycomb Gulch taking our mid-day meal. It was a delightful climb. The heavy rain of the night before had laid the dust and it is a shady walk and not steep. We took coats as there were many scudding clouds - but did not need them except for a back to our seats. We camped in a beautiful grove, not far from the stream which comes out of Lake Solitude, where there is a fine settee with moss covered stone for back. Nellie and I read 'Social Grace' while the children waded in the stream. N and I had our shoes off ready to join them when another party came and camped on the stream with a camp fire and preparations for a long stay. We were joined by Ross and Nora Van Cott with a pack of candy.

August 27, 1905: Turpin has been snaking logs for several days and keeps our water supply very muddy.

August 27, 1905: After dinner at 2 we all went out with cups and pails and picked currents half way to Mary's Lake. I gave the children 80 cents for them. We ate some for supper. I expect to make jelly of balance.

The last entry in the 1905 diary was made September 5th, the day the family packed and went back down the canyon. No other entries were made in the diary for the rest of the year. Most likely the diary had been left at the cabin.

1906

James H. left for the east on June 6th to attend Creighton's graduation from Yale on June 28th. They brought some Brown relatives back to Salt Lake with them to spend the remaining summer.

July 8, 1906: All went to 5 o'clock train to meet Father, Creighton, Grandpa and Grandma...

William C. Brown Family
William C. Brown grandchildren 1900. Highlighted L-R, T-B:
Creighton, Grandma Brown holding Elizabeth, William C. Brown,
Ross, Ted, Marjorie, Lavinia.
The others are children of James' sisters: Nell Harrison, Cora Doty and Catherine.
Dorothy, pictured left of Ted, spent much of 1909 and 1910
living with Leoline, spending time in Brighton and Hollywood. Grace is not pictured.
Along with them came Nell Harrison (James' sister) and her daughter Grace (23). They spent a couple of weeks enjoying Salt Lake, even taking in the downtown parade for Pioneer Day on July 24th. On the 27th all headed to Brighton. Grandma and Grandpa seemed, after a few days, to not enjoy Brighton and in Leoline's words became "depressed" and wanted to go down, but they stuck around and didn't go down until August 7th with James on the stage. Grace and Nell stayed at the cabin and Grace enjoyed frequent horseback rides, hiking with the boys and dances at the hotel.

When the Brown's arrived in Brighton on July 27th, 1906 Leoline noted to James in a letter:

Noodle was just finishing the porch and it looks well and is a great convenience. I am wondering why we did not have it before.

Leoline wrote to James concerning activity in camp and relayed a small rivalry between Creighton (22) and Ross (19) involving one of the young Brightonite ladies.

August 10, 1906: ...Creighton and Ross are now alternately entertaining Nora [Van Cott]. Creighton spent yesterday morning reading with her then brought her to dinner; whereupon Ross took her to the top of Wolverine (some have their doubts that they reached that height) and brought her home somewhat late for a buffet lunch in the kitchen. Creighton picnics this morning with her and another couple (Lamb, etc at Lake Mary)

In only two casual instances is a water supply mentioned. One reference was made about Billy Turpin snaking logs and keeping the water supply muddy. Another time a spring they used was mentioned to reference the location of a camper's tent but doesn't pin-point the spring's location. Today only two spring sources are located in reasonable proximity to Balsam Hill Cabin. One is above the Bintz cabin to the east and the other is above the Jensen cabin to the north. By the lack of discussion regarding water in the early 1900's, it simply must not have been worthy of mention; meaning water was easily available and abundant and required little effort to obtain. But, as the camp grew, water began getting some attention.

August 3, 1906: ...a meeting was held to talk about water. If the stream coming from the Great Western can be secured they will pipe it. Mrs. Brooks has had a Mr. James looking over the situation and he responded before the meeting. It is now in the hands of a committee. ...

A history of the Silver Lake Water Company, probably prepared in about 1961 (author unknown), describes the company's beginning in 1910.

Chapter 3 Footnotes

1Excerpts quoted from diaries are preceded by an image of a diary.
Those from letters are preceded by an image of a letter and an envelope.

2 A few loose pages of journals from 1901 and 1902 exist.

3 Susan G. Stokes was a close friend of Leoline's since her school days and continued to be until Leoline's death in 1916.

4 Sylvia and Ethel were sisters of Leoline's.

5 Because of space limitations in diaries Leoline would frequently use initials. In this case she is speaking of Brighton. She often uses initials when referring to her children as well.

6 Mr. Godbe refers to William S. Godbe a controversial Mormon and founder of the Salt Lake Tribune and the "Godbeites", a group opposed to Brigham Young's control over secular matters. After the death of Brigham Young in 1877 Godbe wrote, "I think I will reside permanently in Salt Lake, it is pleasant for me there, now." WS Godbe died at his home in Brighton on Aug 1, 1902.

7 James' business partner, E.D. Woodruff, purchased Brighton property next door south of Balsam Hill and was recorded on the same day.

8 This was when Twins Lakes was still two natural lakes. The Twin Lakes dam was built in 1915 causing the formation of one large lake.

9 It is not known who the workmen were that built the cabin as no last names were ever mentioned. "Noodle" is a workman that is also mentioned having done work for them in Salt Lake on Lincoln Ave.

10 Joe is Leoline's older brother - Joseph Woodmansee, Jr.

11 Leoline always had a maid and/or a cook to help.

13 Sylvia is Leoline's younger sister by 8 years.

14 Housekeepers.

15 The pony's name was Nellie and had accompanied the Browns to Brighton since 1898.

16 Since 1856, when Brigham Young began the tradition, July 24th was celebrated in Brighton on the Silver Lake meadow bringing hundreds of revelers to the top of the canyon.

17 The wife of L. L. Terry, a principal in the Brown, Terry, Woodruff Corporation.

18 Cecret Lake was shown on maps in 1907 as Mountain Lake and in 1938 as Secret Lake.

19 Leoline probably meant Lake Blanche. Lake Minnie (Cecret Lake) is located in the Albion Basin above Alta.

20 George W. Brown was James H. Brown's younger brother living with his parents in Fitzgerald, Georgia. Nellie was James' sister living in Newark, New Jersey.

21 BLOSSBERY Situated on Iron Mountain "1/2 mile N of the Turbine mill, the same being known as the Hawley mill." James M & WB Cole. 26 July 1875 LCMD-C:238A; Mining claim. Hawley mill was on Hawley Flat, which is the lower end of Snowbird today. A half mile north of the mill would put it on Superior slopes; OLD SOLE LEATHER Situated on W side of Superior Gulch, 2000 feet W from Frederick mine and at the foot of the big cut through the Iron Mountain. James Fowles, Ferdinand Glaser. 7 July 1879 LCMD-C:536 2000 feet west of the Frederick mine would put it on the slopes of Superior. (Information courtesy of Charles L. Keller, author "Lady in the Ore Bucket")

22 Edith Woodmansee was a sister of Leoline's, 6 years her junior.

23 Deadwood Gulch is what is now commonly called Hidden Canyon. It is directly east of Balsam Hill Cabin and it drains the north side of Mt Majestic (Clayton Peak).

24 It is not known what report is specifically being referred to here.

25 Billy Turpin was a local "Brightonite" who performed many jobs for people in the camp. One of the services he offered was to skid logs to construction locations.

26 Salt Lake Tribune July 17, 1904: "This summer the hotel is under new management and Brighton is to have many new attractions. Several new boats have been placed on Silver Lake for the use of the public. Golf links, tennis courts and croquet grounds have been arranged for the guests and cottagers. The old hotel has been rearranged into a bowling alley where three fine Maplewood alleys have been laid." The announcement was also in the Salt Lake Tribune, April 26, 1904

27 Page 105. This presents a bit of a contradiction. Perhaps Mr. Moyle's recollection is inaccurate as to the date the bowling alleys were constructed, or, more likely, they were first placed in the old hotel, and then rebuilt on the flats in 1908.

28 Gil Moyle was a brother of James D. Moyle.

29 Lamb (last name) was a friend of Creighton's

30Emma Lucy Gates Bowen was a Utah native and granddaughter of Brigham Young who became an internationally prominent opera singer. "My whole soul seems to be brought out when I sing," she once wrote. In 1909 she received a contract with the Royal Opera of Berlin. After two years she accepted a position as prima coloratura soprano at the Kassel Royal Opera, soon becoming a popular European opera and concert artist, singing in the major cities of Europe. "Miss Gates is the equal of the greatest prima donnas this country has produced," wrote one critic. Often compared to Galli-Curci, the reigning prima donna of opera, she was praised for her "flawless agility," "purity of intonation," and "dazzling style," all demonstrating a "lyric charm and sensuous beauty of tone." Critics also praised her beauty, her stage presence, and her natural theatrical ability.

31 "Bishop Blougram's Apology" a lengthy poem by Robert Browning. An argument is made over wine after dinner to defend himself from the criticisms of a doubting young literary man, who despises him because he considers that he cannot be true to his convictions in conforming to the doctrines of the Catholic Church. Leoline spent considerable time studying Browning and attending classes/lectures or "sections" as she referred to them.

32 Nellie Montgomery was Leoline's cousin and frequent guest and companion.

33 Nora was the housekeeper for the season.

34 Joe (Leoline's older brother) had injured his eye in an accident a few weeks prior and had it surgically removed.